An early
Arkansas Territorial newspaper, The Arkansas
Advocate, began in 1830 to compete the other newspaper in Little
Rock, the Arkansas Gazette, founded
in 1819. In its folds are wonderful
glimpses of Ozark life at the time. In
the following story is a description of Izard County, Arkansas, in 1830. Izard county was founded October 27, 1825. At the time of publication, Izard County was larger than
today, and it was one of only 3 northern counties in the Arkansas Territory. I have culled a few map images of this region in its earlier time. This article was penned by Mr. C.
F. M. Noland. In his narrative, one can imagine the wide expanse of our Ozarks' History.
Click on pictures to enlarge view.
Map of the State of Missouri And Territory of Arkansas Compiled From The Latest Authorities. Drawn by D.H. Vance. Engraved by J.H. Young. Published by A. Finley Philadelphia 1826. |
For the Arkansas Advocate.
Izard County
From this to the next settlement, a distance of 17 miles, the land appears somewhat better; here we find another grist mill and another saw mill, both of which meet with much encouragement. Eight miles further on is a branch of White river, called the Big North Fork; it is about 80 yards in width and at least 100 miles in length; in other countries it would be called a navigable river as it now is in freshets for some distance. It is settled for 30 or 40 miles up, presents much rich bottom and a good deal of tillable upland. About 20 miles from its mouth, it breaks off into creeks, many of which upon their borders, present many inviting situations, and the country adjoining becomes for some distance level and rich. At the junction of this stream with White river, stands the Seat of Justice, Liberty; its situation is elevated and commanding; as yet, how-ever, like most of the little towns, it is not much improved; in proportions as the settlements increase so will this place, in importance. At this time it has a store, a blacksmith shop, and a good Tavern, where is to be found good cheer upon moderate terms. Opposite to the town is another store and a cotton gin nearly competed.
Map Of The United States By J.H. Young. Published by S. Augustus Mitchell. Entered ... Pennsylvania, October 10th, 1831 by S. Augustus Mitchell. Engraved by J.H. Young, D. Haines & F. Dankworth. |
For 30 miles farther the hills and mountains are
numerous, then for 10 miles the lands are rich and thickly settled, until we
reach the Little North Fork, about 40 yards in width and 60 miles in length;
here, near the mouth, is another sawmill and here too, within a short distance
of the main river, is an inexhaustible mine of Iron ore, and if the reports of
those who have examined it be true, of which there is no reason to doubt, it
will yield to no other in richness; for it is said to be almost malleable. Wood
is plenty immediately joining to it, and water power sufficient for machinery
of any kind. It will yet be the source of wealth to some enterprising
capitalist, for in addition to the many advantages which it presents, the iron
could be shipped immediately from the works, and the counties below, bordering
upon the river, would be a market calculated to take much of its labor. Above
this stream we see consider-able good land, and pass Swan and Bull Creeks, and
many others, all of which not only have settlements on them, but present many
fine openings to the emigrant.
Forty miles farther we strike James’ Fork of White
river a stream equally as large and long as the Big North Fork, The bottoms are
tolerably large and in proportion as it is ascended, becomes more open until
about 30 miles from the mouth a level country is readily seen really and truly
inviting, fine land, the best of water and health, if it is to be found
anywhere. This stream is settling fast, particularly by persons from Missouri.
It has become in some measure noted for its lead mines, the ore of which is
plainly perceptible to the eye across the whole bed of the stream; it is said
to be very rich though it has never been regularly worked. The Indians and
others occasionally run their lead from it. On the west side of the river, the
prairie opens and extends as is supposed to the Rocky Mountains. There is a
road from here to Washington County, and another to St. Louis, both of which
are said to be a good deal traveled. The country generally above this and on
the head of White river and its tributaries is very similar to that of
Washington County. Heretofore, the country and its streams have been spoken of
only on the north side of White river; that on the south side is far from being
undeserving of notice. Until 1828 it formed a part of the Cherokee nation, and
was always deemed the most inviting part of Izard County.
A New Map Of Arkansas with its Canals, Roads & Distances by H.S. Tanner. Entered ... 1833 by H.S. Tanner ... Pennsylvania. Published by H.S. Tanner Philadelphia. |
The lands upon the river have been described, but
some distance back along the line of Independence, is a large tract called the
Rich Woods, said to be well watered and almost large enough for a county. There
are but a few families settled here, all of whom speak in the highest terms of
the adjacent lands. It is so lately that this part of Izard has been open for
settlement, that its advantages and good lands are almost unknown; it is well
therefore, to pass on to Buffalo creek, a distance of 50 miles, though in doing
so a number of small creeks must be passed unnoticed.
Buffalo creek is upward of 40 miles in length, its
bottoms are tolerable good and will give room to a considerable settlement;
near its mouth is a large salt petre cave, which a few years since, was
extensively worked. The next stream is Crooked creek, which has long had a high
reputation; it is 60 miles long and though inclined to be poor and rocky near
its mouth, yet a few miles up a beautiful country is found, and it continues up
to its head; its bottoms are large, and the uplands, generally undulating, rich
as can be desired; springs are so numerous here that they are discovered in
every direction. The land continues good to Bear creek. The character of this
little stream is, generally speaking, similar to that of Crooked creek. These
two creeks are beginning to present farms not only immediately upon the margin,
but in the open country, which breaks off level, occasionally giving a view of
small prairie sufficiently large for good farms.
King river empties into White river, and is worthy
of attention to those who are fond of good spring water, as well as good land
both of which can be found upon and near it without much trouble. Fifteen miles
above is the War Eagle, one of the main forks of White river, but supposed to
be in Washington county. It is no doubt navigable for flat boats for some
distance in high water. For many miles up it presents very large bodies of land
well adapted to agricultural purposes, occasionally intersected with small
prairies, similar in richness and appearance to the lands in Washington county.
Four miles above this is Richland creek. Its name is truly applicable, for the
land is rich in every direction, and continues so with scarcely an intermission
for 20 miles, to Washington Courthouse.
In giving a description of Izard County, it is
perhaps, going too near the Washington C. H. [Court House], but as it is located on White
river, a full description of its tributaries, however superficial, should be
given. It is a rare case in Izard County, to find a farmer without a first-rate
spring, which no doubt adds very much to the health of the inhabitants. It has
increased by slowly in population from the fact that it was a great measure
unknown, and until within two years, the part situated on the south side of the
river, belonged to the Indians. It is now, however, increasing considerably in
numbers, and no doubt will continue to do so in proportion as it becomes better
known. It is but lately that the inhabitants have devoted any part of their
attention to the cultivation of cotton, yet this year they will probably export
nearly 100 bales.
United
States of America. Maclure, William. 1838. Printed by John Wilbank, Philadelphia. |
The inhabitants of Izard, like all the other
counties bordering on White river, receive their supplies in kneel boats; they too,
call loudly for a steam-boat to ascend the river, for they would be prepared,
like every other family in the north, to buy their groceries and such other
articles as they might need; and a full load upon such terms as could be
afforded to be sold at, would occasion no delay, and give a handsome freight
and commission. It would scarcely be believed, that six counties, with a
population of 7 or 8,000 could, sending off near a 1,000 bales of cotton,
besides peltries, furs, etc., and importing 250 tons of merchandise, have never
been visited by a single steam-boat. One trip would soon induce another, for
the harvest awaiting the coming of the first is truly a rich one. Then, too,
emigrants desirous of settling on the waters of White river, would have an
opportunity of ascending with less labor and expense. Many parts of Izard
County are similar to Washington, the farmers are kind and hospitable, and
provisions cheap and plenty.
Work Cited:
“Izard County.” The
Arkansas Advocate, Little Rock, Arkansas, (10 Nov., 1830) 3.
1 comment:
Nice! Hope anyone interested will learn more about Izard's history at Exploring Izard County
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